The Pros and Cons of the Jessner Peel

Chemical peels are classified into types depending on the active substance. They include alpha hydroxy acid peels (containing citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, other AHAs or their combinations), beta hydroxy acid peels (containing salicylic acid), retinoic acid peels, and phenol-croton oil peels. Some chemical peels, like Jessner peel, are formulated with active substances of more than one type.

German dermatologist Max Jessner developed the formula that is now known as Jessner’s solution as a treatment for hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions. It contains lactic acid, salicylic acid, and resorcinol in 95% ethanol. These substances break chemical bonds in the outermost layer of the skin, letting dead skin cells peel off naturally, as well as reduce the appearance of acne and even skin tone. The Jessner peel is quite effective, but, like any beauty procedure, it has its pros and cons.

Pro: It Is One of the Most Effective Chemical Peels

Invented over a century ago, the Jessner peel is considered to be one of the most effective chemical peels. It is a medium depth peel that easily removes the outermost layer of the skin, lightens pigmentation, helps treat acne, reduces moderate wrinkles, opens clogged pores, and combats uneven skin tone and dull complexion.

Pro: It Is Suitable for Most Skin Types

Although the skin type that will benefit the most from the Jessner peel is oily and problem skin, this peel can also be used on most skin types, including aging skin. However, it is not recommended for people with darker skin tones because it can lighten the skin too much, making your face visibly lighter than your body.

Pro: It Is Safe (When Carried Out by a Beautician)

The Jessner peel is considered safe, unless you are allergic or sensitive to any of the ingredients. First, a beautician would cleanse your skin with a glycolic cleanser to remove oil and dirt. After that, Jessner’s solution is applied to the skin. Depending on your skin’s condition, 2 to 5 layers of the solution can be applied. At the end of the treatment, a moisturizing solution or a calming mask will be applied to finish off the procedure. Although you may experience dry, tight skin, slight redness and mild swelling, there shouldn’t be any strong adverse reactions if everything has been done right.

Con: The Result Isn’t Immediate

Your skin won’t get all smooth, refreshed and glowing immediately. You’ll have to wait for about a week after the treatment to achieve the desired result. During this time, your skin will turn from pink to brown and peel away. To avoid potential side effects, you should refrain from moisturizing and picking on your skin.

Con: It Makes Your Skin More Susceptible to UV Radiation

All chemical peels, the Jessner peel included, reveal a layer of new skin that is especially vulnerable to UV radiation. Therefore, the best time of year for the Jessner peel is early spring or late autumn, when the UV radiation is relatively weak. To protect your skin from the sun after the procedure, try to spend as little time outdoors as possible because sun exposure can cause hyperpigmentation and other side effects.

Con: It Has Contraindications

While the Jessner peel is suitable for most skin types, it does have its contraindications. They include pregnancy, breastfeeding, sunburn, cold sores, severe cystic acne, chronic skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis, etc.), broken skin or lesions. And if you use skincare products with retinoids, you need to stop using them at least a week before the procedure.