Japanese culture has long had a special regard for the navel. Back in the day, navel exposure was not encouraged due to traditional mythology and superstitions. For example, legends about the thunder god Raijin told that he liked to devour the belly buttons or whole abdomens of children who dared to bare their stomachs during thunderstorms, so mothers taught their young kids to always cover their stomach when the weather was bad.
Navel exposure became much more common in the mid-20th century, and the Furano Belly Button Festival probably contributed to that. The city of Furano is know as “the belly button of Hokkaido” due to its central location on the island, and the famous Belly Button Festival was conceived thanks to associations with the city’s affectionate nickname. It was launched in 1969, when the city administration decided that Furano needed an annual festival to unite and energize its residents.
Inspired by Furano’s location, the organizers (Shubo Kurigami, Tokachi Morita and Eijiro Yokoo, collectively known as the “belly button trio” or the “belly button buddies”) came up with the idea of a belly button dance (Heso Odori) that became the main event of the festival. The first Heso Matsuri was not particularly successful, with only eleven people joining the dance. However, things have changed since then; today, more than 4,000 people participate in the dance during two days, with around 70,000 gathering to watch, locals and tourists alike.
Participants of the belly button dance paint fun faces called “Zubara” on their torsos. The bigger the belly, the more fabulous the stomach art! If it is difficult or impossible to paint directly on a dancer’s stomach, it is permitted to paint a face on a t-shirt and wear it during the dance. To conceal their faces and keep spectators focused on their belly art, dancers perform in large, conical straw hats that keep their heads and arms hidden as they move to the beat of a traditional tune.
In addition to the Bally Button Dance, the program of the festival also includes parades, music performances, special events and competitions for children, a local products fair, parties, and other fun events and activities for visitors of all ages and backgrounds. And of course there is delicious local food! During the festival, local restaurants set up food stalls where they offer various dishes that are somehow related to the belly button.
The spiritual pillar of the Furano Belly Button Festival is the Hokushin Shrine, also known as the Belly Button (Heso) Shrine. People come here to pray for comfort in life, growth, happiness, health, love, and prosperity. Next to the shrine, there is Hahakodo (Mother and Child Hall), which keeps and protects umbilical cords sent from all over the country as a representation of life and the bonds of human love.
Photo: Gordon erobert Japan