National Kebaya Day in Indonesia Date in the current year: July 24, 2024

Kebaya is an upper garment that is open at the front and fastened with buttons, brooches, or pins. Traditionally made from transparent or semi-transparent lightweight fabrics (silk brocade, thin cotton, lace) and sometimes decorated with embroidery or sequins, it is worn over a lower garment like sarong or kemben.

The word kebaya is believed to derive from the Arabic/Persian word qaba, which means a long coat with sleeves and buttons, or from the Arabic word abaya, which means a loose, robe-like garment worn by women in some Muslim countries. Kebaya probably originated in the Middle East and was brought to Southeast Asia around the 16th century with the help of Arab merchants and Portuguese explorers. However, some sources claim that kebaya predates the European arrival in the region.

Be that as it may, kebaya has been traditionally worn by women in several countries of Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and parts of Cambodia, Thailand, and the Philippines. In Indonesia, kebaya used to be part of women’s everyday attire during the colonial era. A traditional Indonesian kebaya has long sleeves and a collarless neck; it is fastened at the front with a special brooch named kerongsang, which is made from metal and decorated with stones.

Following Indonesia’s independence from the Netherlands, President Sukarno designated kebaya as the national attire of Indonesia after prominent writer and activist S. K. Trimurti wore it at the independence proclamation ceremony. Kebaya has been worn by several Indonesian first ladies, notably Sukarno’s wives Fatmawati and Dewi. It is also part of uniforms worn by female flight attendants working for Garuda Indonesia, the country’s flag carrier.

There are many varieties of Indonesian kebaya: kartini kebaya, kutubaru kebaya, Javanese kebaya, keraton kebaya (Solo kebaya), Sundanese kebaya, Bandung kebaya, Balinese kebaya, Madurese kebaya, Malay (Labuh) kebaya, Batak kebaya, Ambon kebaya, Minahasa kebaya, Mongondow kabaya, and many others. Some of these styles were named after a location or ethnicity, while the names others reflect the wearer’s status: keraton kebaya, for example, was named after a type of royal palace in Java, as it was traditionally worn by noble women.

Over the past few decades, kebaya has become a fashion icon in Indonesia. Numerous Indonesian fashion designers have experimented with the garment to create their own modern takes on traditional kebaya. Modern kebayas can be short-sleeved or have no sleeves at all, use non-traditional fabrics (nylon, polyester) or patterns like polka dots, and be combined with modern clothes like pants or short skirts.

July 24 was designated as National Kebaya Day by the government of Indonesia and President Kojo Widodo in August 2023. The main goal of the holiday is to highlight the cultural significance of kebaya as part of Indonesia’s national identity. National Kebaya Day is marked by fashion shows and other cultural events showcasing Indonesian kebaya.